Jeju Stone Park, Seongsan Ilchulbong, and Haenyeo!
Yesterday we explored the east side of Jeju Island. Our first stop was Jeju Stone Park. Jeju Island was formed from volcanos. As a result, there are black rocks everywhere which made their way into mythology. According to legend, a deity named Seoulmundae Grandmother created Jeju Island and had 500 sons. She met her death by drowning in a large pot of gruel she was cooking for her sons. Various stones at Jeju Stone Park were believed to represent Seoulmundae Grandmother and her 500 sons. The park also showed a replica of a traditional Jeju village and had many other sites. We could have spent much longer there, but we were on a timeline. I read that the Haenyeo women had a show at 3:00 and I didn't want to miss it!
We saw a group of small children arrive for a field trip. There is nothing cuter than a small Korean child speaking Korean!
Climbing up one of the rocks at Jeju Stone Park
The boys were inspired to build their own small stone sculptures
There were tons of these carved stones all over the park.
I've loved spending so much quality time with my boys!
Trying to see inside one of the traditional thatched houses
There were rocks everywhere!
Some of the 500 sons of Grandmother Seoulmundae
This was in the gift shop- it's a carving of a Haenyeo woman
Jars used for making kimchi
I have not seen this show, but I will check it out when I get home!
Filming site
We ate a quick lunch at Jeju Stone Park and then drove to Seongsan Ilchulbong. I read that the Haenyeo women gave a show here at 1:30 and 3:00 each day. Haenyeo are traditional women divers on Jeju Island. A couple years ago I read a book called The Island of the Sea Women. If you haven't read it, you should! Not only were these women responsible for providing for the livelihood of their families, they were instrumental in the resistance to the Japanese occupation of Korea. Their story is fascinating and there are still several around. They dive underwater with a wetsuit and a tewak which is a flotation device and net to hold the sea life. They do not use any scuba gear, but have trained their bodies to hold their breath for 2 minutes. I wanted to see them so badly!! But I made 2 mistakes. Number one, we were so rushed to arrive there by 3 that I misread the directions- I went down the staircase on the right hand side of the parking lot, not the left. And the other mistake wasn't really my fault. My google search result said the shows were at 1:30 and 3:00, but when we arrived we learned the show was at 2, so I missed it.
I was determined that our drive not be in vain, so we decided to climb Seongsan Ilchulbong. This is nicknamed Sunrise Peak because so many people climb it to see the sunrise. Even though it wasn't sunrise, it was still a busy place with many people hiking to the summit. We climbed too! The climb was steep. Very steep for this out of shape body. I had to stop several times to catch my breath. And the air was very thick and humid. My hair was visibly wilting the longer I hiked. By the time I reached the top it felt a little wet! But the view was worth it. The pictures don't do it justice, especially since it was a cloudy day.
A view of Seongsan Ilchulbong
Starting the hike
Stopping for a break partway up- notice the wilting hair on my head!
We made it! Aiden beat us up by a good 5-10 minutes. Football has made him so strong!
The crater does not boast a lake. I can't quite remember why- something about the rock being too porous.
View from the top
If you go up, you must go down again! That part was a little scary with all the mist and sprinkling rain.
Heading down. I did not want to stop for this picture because it meant taking my eyes off the steps, looking up, and realizing how high I was!
When we climbed down the mountain, I realized that I had been looking for the Haenyeo Women in the wrong spot! I could see their little restaurant in the distance. We were all exhausted from the hike and the thought of navigating more steps felt overwhelming. But I just had to see them! Aiden was was my trusty companion while Luke and Jordan visited a gift shop.
Overlooking the cove where they dive
A closer view of the cove. It was beautiful!
I found their tewaks lying out to dry
And their wetsuits!
Some of the day's catch. You can't tell from the picture, but the little creatures were moving around in these shells. I saw a women take a knife and cut the creatures from the shells, place them on a plate, and hand them to a customer who looked eager to eat them. I also saw her take her finger and scoop out one of these creatures and pop it in her mouth!
A real Haenyeo at work. I heard they don't like their pictures taken, so I tried to be sneaky.
I know they are Haenyeo. I mustered up all my courage and went up to one and said, "해녀세요? (Haenyeo-say-oh? or Are you Haenyeo?) and she said, "네" (nay or yes). Her answer was abrupt and it was clear she wasn't interested in talking further. She had work to do!
Another net hanging out to dry
A view of the Haenyeo restaurant. I forgot to get a picture of the roof. It said, Haenyeo's house.
The views were stunning!
The sign made it pretty clear where to go! If only I had turned left instead of right coming out of the parking lot, I may have seen them in their wetsuits.
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